Darwin


Darwin, the tropical capital city of the Northern Territory, is an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding area of the Top End, but is also well worth a visit in its own right.

Boasting warm weather all year round (average 32 degrees C), Darwin is a lively, modern and cosmopolitan town, with a relaxed, outdoor lifestyle, a vibrant population (and the most youthful in Australia) of a vast number of races and plenty of attractions.

Maritime and naval activities play an important part in Darwin’s history (the harbour here is twice the size of that of Sydney) – in 1869, Darwin was established as Australia’s most northerly port town, although the port had been found back in 1839 and was named Darwin by its discoverer, a former Beagle shipmate of Charles Darwin. The population surged in 1871 after gold was discovered at Pine Creek, but then slowed again once the gold fever had passed.

During the Second World War however, Darwin was firmly re-established on the global map thanks to its position as a major base for Allied action in the Pacific against the Japanese. It was the surfacing of the road south to Alice Springs that finally put Darwin in easier reach of the rest of Australia. In 1974, on Christmas Eve, much of the city of Darwin was destroyed by Cyclone Tracy, but it was rebuilt and restored to its former glory – visit the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory for an informative and detailed exhibition about this part of Darwin’s history.

Darwin has long been a “melting pot” of many different races – it is said that between 45 and 60 ethnic groups are accounted for in Darwin, including recent arrivals such as Vietnamese; fourth generation Asian-Australians, Europeans (predominantly of Greek origin), and of course the original inhabitants of the area, the Larrakia Aboriginal people.

Geographically speaking, Darwin is closer to some Asian countries and cities than it is to some other Australian cities, and as such, is the main link between Australia and Asia. This mix of races makes Darwin a great place for eating out – restaurants here serve cuisine from all over the world, alongside more traditional and authentic NT fare – favourites include mud-crabs, barramundi, crocodile and buffalo.
What to do in Darwin

Aquascene: Located in central Darwin, at Doctors Gully, Aquascene is a popular attraction. Here, fish come to shore at high tide each day for a feed – apparently, half of Darwin’s stale bread gets taken down here and fed to the fish by hand. This daily tradition started over 40 years ago when a Darwin resident started throwing out state bread to a few red mullet that came to shore. This has expanded drastically over the intervening years and now hordes of milkfish, mullet, catfish, and rays can be seen in the shallows. Morning high tide is usually the best time for fish-feeding, and fish numbers are at their peak between December and August. Aquascene is only open at fish-feeding times, which are tide-dependent so it is important to check first.

Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory: Located just a couple of miles out of central Darwin in a tropical garden on the shores of Darwin Harbour, this museum houses a fascinating exhibition of art, both Aboriginal and Asian, culture, maritime history and wildlife. There is also a gallery with a permanent exhibition detailing Cyclone Tracy, which destroyed much of Darwin in 1974. Some of the main attractions of the gallery include the Tiwi Island carvings and “Sweetheart”, the stuffed 5 metre long saltwater crocodile and Top End personality, who died in 1979.

Australian Aviation Heritage Centre: Just three miles from the city centre, this museum houses a variety of planes and charts the history of aviation in Australia through the ages. The highlight is undoubtedly a massive US B52 bomber, one of only two on display outside the US, which through its sheer size dominates the exhibition. There are also many photographs and displays showing war-time Darwin, various pioneer flights and the development of the jet engine.

Darwin Wharf Precinct: Darwin Wharf Precinct has transformed what used to be the somewhat unattractive old port facilities into a modern tourist centre boasting a host of attractions and eating places. The Wharf plays and important part in Darwin’s history – it has its origins in the late 1800s, and over the years has been the base of the Northern Territory’s pearling industry, and its gold rush which encouraged thousands of Asians to the region. Still standing today are many historical landmarks, including old oil-storage tunnels that were dug into the cliff face during the Second World War. The Wharf area was bombed by the Japanese in 1942, and has been largely reconstructed. The past is celebrated in attractions such as the pearling exhibition. It is also a popular place for fishing, and many of Darwin’s harbour cruises depart from here.


Myilly Point Heritage Precinct:
Just four houses make up the Myilly Point Heritage Precinct, but they are historically important as they are the last of their kind, and represent unique examples of Darwin pre-World War Two architecture. The houses are raised above the ground, built of lightweight material, and have asbestos cement louvers and casement windows, which enabled residents to regulate ventilation according to the weather. The homes were designed in the early 1930s by BCG Burnett, and were originally inhabited by high ranking government officers. Burnett was responsible for much of the architecture of pre-War Darwin, but these four houses are the best surviving examples of his work. They have been continuously lived-in since they were built, and one of them, Burnett House, is open for high teas on Sundays.

Fannie Bay Gaol:
Located a little further out of central Darwin, the Fannie Bay Gaol was the major detention centre for Darwin for nearly a century, from 1883 until it close in 1979 when a new high security prison was opened. The gaol is now a museum, and on display are a set a gallows constructed and installed for hangings, which were held in the Northern Territory until 1952, as well as the washhouse, kitchen, infirmary and cell blocks. A stark reminder of the segregation of Aboriginals is evident in the “native section” that was exclusively for Aboriginal prisoners. There is also a minimum security section which at various times was used for lepers, juvenile delinquents and Vietnamese refugees.

Government House: Government House, situated on Darwin’s esplanade, is the oldest and most important government building in the NT, and is associated with the different forms of government which have operated in the Northern Territory, including the South Australian colonial administration.
Browns Mart: Over the years, Brown’s Mart has served Darwin’s residents in many ways. Originally, built as a market and shop in 1885, it subsequently was the town’s mining exchange, its bank, auction room, steamship booking office, Crown Law Office, Police Station and naval depot. Now it is a theatre, and hoses the Darwin Fringe Festival.

Lyons Cottage: Lyon’s Cottage, one of Darwin’s foremost historic buildings, set in the central Knuckey Street and the Esplanade, was built in 1925 as the residence of the company engineer of the Eastern Extension Australasian and China Telegraph Company Ltd, and was the first stone building built in Darwin in 30 years. Local stone was used to build it, though the architectural design is reminiscent of colonial English styles more commonly found in the British Empire regions of Malaya, Singapore or India.

Second World War in Darwin: Darwin suffered considerable bomb damage during the Second World War, when it came under 64 Japanese air raid attacks, the most suffered by any Australian city, during which 243 Darwin citizens lost their lives. There are numerous sites to visit that showcase the historical events of the Second World War as experienced by the people of the Northern Territory, and the commemorate the lives lost in the fighting. Major sites include the ammunition bunkers in the Charles Darwin National Park, and the war cemetery, east of the highway in Adelaide River, around a 70mile journey from Darwin. This is Australia’s largest war cemetery and it commemorates those who lost their lives during the Japanese attacks.

Markets: Darwin has many open air markets, generally held at weekends – the main ones are in Rapid Creek (Sunday morning), Nightcliff (Sunday morning), Palmerston and Parap (Saturday morning), but perhaps the most famous is the Mindil Beach Sunset Market, just a mile from the city centre, held on Thursday and Sunday nights between May and October each year. Here up to 200 stall holders, street performers and musicians gather on the beachfront and party! It is also a great place to eat out, as there is a tantalising mix of cuisines including Thai, Indian, Brazilian, Malay, Greek and Portuguese – prices are very reasonable, and the atmosphere unbeatable.

Beaches: Darwin has plenty of beaches on which to enjoy the tropical sun, but many of the beaches are no go areas during “stinger season”. Outside this time, the most popular beaches and Mindil and Vestey’s on Fannie Bay; and in North Darwin, part of Nightcliff Beach is protected by a stinger net making this a popular choice year round.

Botanical Gardens: Just a short drive from the centre of Darwin, are the Botanical Gardens, officially named the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens. Here, in over 42 hectares of tropical gardens, you will find a wide range of flora native to Northern Australia, including orchids. The gardens were established in the 1870s by Maurice Holtz, the first Government gardener, with two purposes in mind – to introduce and evaluate a variety of plant life for planned economic uses, and also to grow vegetables to supplement the food supply in Darwin, which was going through a period of instability. A variety of different tropical environments are represented including monsoon forests, open woodlands, mangroves and coastal dunes. Highlights include the self-guided Aboriginal Plant Use walk, the plant display house with its collection of tropical orchids, and the Wesleyan Church, which was previously located in the city centre, but which was restored and moved to the gardens. The Botanic Gardens were severely damaged in Cyclone Tracy in 1974 and around 75% of the plants were uprooted but thankfully the gardens were soon back to their former glory.

Charles Darwin National Park:
The Charles Darwin National Park is on Frances Bay, and the reason for its existence is to protect part of the Port Darwin Wetland, which is one of the most important wetland areas in all Australia. The wetland itself measures 30 square miles, and includes in its flora 36 of the 51 species of mangrove to be found in the Northern Territory. There is archaeological evidence to suggest the area has been home to the Aboriginal community for thousands of years and the Larrakia people are the traditional owners of this part of Darwin. The area was of great significance during the Second World War as it was part of Australia’s first line of defence and home to a number of bunkers and storage facilities, one of which now houses a display of wartime memorabilia.

SKYCITY Darwin:
SKYCITY Darwin is centrally located a short walk from the CBD, though its setting is that of lush tropical gardens. It is basically a large entertainment complex, comprising hotel, casino, restaurants and bars, as well as being a popular concert venue. It is home to the only 5 star beachfront hotel.

Darwin Harbour: Darwin Harbour itself is worth exploring by boat, or from the air. Surrounded by beautiful tidal beaches and mangroves, the harbour itself is the final resting place of various wartime vessels, as well as those which met their end during Hurricane Tracy, or even confiscated Indonesian fishing boats. It is also a favourite place for fishing as it is stocked with the NT treasure, barramundi, as well as snapper, salmon and jewfish. Alternatively, scuba diving is another popular pastime, as there are a number of wrecks to explore – dive companies operate out of Cullen Harbour and Stuart Park. Or if you want to stay above the water, then there are several cruising options – you can even take a trip on an old pearl lugger!

Fishing: Darwin is well known for its fishing - in the harbour itself, in inland billabongs, in the tidal rivers, in the mangrove lined estuaries and in the coastal waters too. Barramundi, perch that can grow to over 1metre in length, is the iconic fish of the region, and at the Barramundi Fishing Park, in Howard Springs, just 30 minutes form Darwin, there is a billabong stocked with in excess of 3000 barramundi – you don’t even have to be an experienced fisherman to try your luck – and a catch is guaranteed! You won’t get to sample the fish you caught though as the park follows and environmentally friendly “catch and release” programme, but the restaurant does serve up barramundi on its menu!

Crocodiles: Another icon of the Top End of Australia is the crocodile – whilst it wouldn’t be much of a holiday to meet one up close unexpectedly, there are numerous places where you can enjoy a controlled encounter with one! Crocodylus Park, in Berrimah, just a short drive from Darwin, is one of the best places in the whole country to have your face to face meeting with these creatures, the largest reptiles on earth! Research and conservation are a vital part of the work done at Crocodylus Park, and this 30 year old attraction is home to a number of other animals, including big cats, primates, birds and other reptiles. You will have the chance to get up close and even feed one of the crocodiles – if you dare! The Darwin Crocodile Farm, on the Stuart Highway, south of the Arnhem Highway turn-off, was founded in 1981 and now houses around 35,000 crocodiles, both fresh and saltwater, from hatchlings to males over 5m long! Many of the crocodiles here are ones that have been removed from the NT waters as they presented dangers to the population, but also many have been born and bred here as part of the breeding programme. Nature lovers beware though that this is also run as a business and around 200 crocodiles a year are killed for their skins and meat.

Casuarina Coastal Reserve: The Casuarina Coastal Reserve is located a 20 minute drive from Darwin and is home to some beautiful sandy beaches, bordered by casuarina trees, and huge sandstone cliffs. Here you will also find Old Man Rock, a designated Aboriginal Sacred Site. The reserve’s purpose is to protect the coastal area between Rapid Creek and Buffalo Creek, home to beaches and cliffs, as well as mangroves and paper bark forests, and also the cultural sites of the area. Swimming off the beaches here is not allowed between October and April because of the presence of box jellyfish, and although it is allowed during the rest of the year, bathers should be aware that the jellyfish have been found year round in these waters.

Territory Wildlife Park: Just a 45 minute drive from Darwin, in 400 hectares of native bush land, is the Territory Wildlife Park, which features an aquarium (where you can see a 3.7m long “saltie” – saltwater crocodile), birds of prey, bird walk, reptile display and nocturnal house – all housing indigenous NT wildlife in its natural environment. You will also be able to see kangaroos and wallabies roaming free (and learn the differences between them!).

Berry Springs Nature Park: Close to the Territory Wildlife Park is Berry Springs Nature Park, a great place for a picnic and a swim, and easily combined with a trip to the wildlife park. Here, there is a thermal waterfall, spring-fed crystal clear pools and abundant bird life. There is also an interpretive centre which provides information on the area, and the flora and fauna to be found here. During the Second World War, Berry Springs formed part of an “R & R" camp for the 100,000 troops based in the region, and there are a number of photographs on display.

Coomalie Cultural Centre: A worthwhile stop on the way to Litchfield National Park, the Coomalie Cultural Centre in Batchelor, is home to a collection of art from the Top End, including paper bark pictures, textiles, weavings, textiles, and even some didgeridoos! There is also a bush tucker garden where you can learn more about the indigenous plants and animals that for years have formed the basis of Aboriginal food.

Barra Shack: If you are travelling to or from Kakadu National Park and need to do some souvenir shopping, then there is no better place to stop than the Barra Shack in Humpty Doo, where you can buy a plethora of gifts fashioned from barramundi, crocodile or kangaroo skids and hides. Here you can also listen to Australian bush poetry readings.

Lake Bennett: Travel 55 miles south of Darwin on the Stuart Highway and you will come to Lake Bennett, near Batchelor. This is a man-made lake, well stocked with barramundi, so fishing is a popular pastime, but it is also renowned for safe swimming, water sports such as canoeing, as well as the surrounding country being a great place for mountain biking, bird-watching or hiking.





Getting to and Around Darwin
Darwin is served by regular international air connections from Singapore, Bali and Brunei.

Flying domestically, it is a around a four hour flight from most of the other Australian state capital cities.

If you fancy travelling by train, the Ghan train arrives regularly from Adelaide via Alice Springs. Darwin also has a large port which is a stopping off point on the itineraries of a number of cruise ships.

Travelling overland from other states is another way to see more of the country – take the Barkly Highway via Mount Isa for access to the Northern Territory from Queensland; from Western Australia take the Victoria Highway, via Kununnura; and from South Australia the Stuart Highway via Coober Pedy.

Once you have arrived in Darwin, you will find the city is easily explored on foot, though the tropical climate means that if you are embarking on a walking tour, it is best to do it in the morning or in the late afternoon when temperatures and humidity are not too high.

Alternatively, there are a number of “jump on jump off” tourist buses, or it is possible to hire a bicycle and tour the city using the excellent network of bicycle tracks that criss-cross the city. Whatever your mode of transport, here are some unmissable attractions in Darwin



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