Coober Pedy, could this be Australia’s strangest and most unique town? It’s certainly an eyebrow raiser and quite unlike anything you’ll have seen before. Although, you probably have seen it before without realising, as it has acted as the backdrop to a number of big screen movies, most notably Mad Max. Add to that Red Planet, Priscilla Queen of the Desert and Pitch Black, and you’ll begin to get a feel for the fact that the landscape at Coober Pedy is a touch surreal! Your expectations are about to be challenged.... 

The name Coober Pedy derives from the Aboriginal ‘kupa piti’, roughly translated as ‘White Man’s hole in the ground’. It is the largest opal mining area in the world, with over 70 opal fields and is still the primary source of the town’s income today. 

The area surrounding the actual town area is like a lunar landscape and you half expect to come across some ‘other worldly’ creatures hanging out. In fact it won’t be long before you’re wondering where the 3500 or so population do actually hang out, as the place may seem quite desolate at first sight. However, look around and you begin to make out a number of doors built into the undulating earthy mounds surrounding you. Put quite eloquently (if strangely!) by Colin Thiele in his novel The Fire in the Stone: “in the sides of the slopes, cut into every knoll and knob, were doorways and entrances and burrows as if the whole place was inhabited by five foot high rabbits walking about on their hind legs.” Indeed, it does look as though you may have stumbled upon a giant rabbit’s warren. But no, this is how the locals live! Houses carved underground like caves mean that residents can escape the searing summer heat where it can reach up to 50 or even 60 degrees. Living underground allows them to keep the temperature at a cool constant, whilst still staying warm in the cooler winter months. Approximately 90% of the population live this way and likewise, much of the accommodation for tourists is underground too, but then that’s all part of the fun and unique experience! 

You might think that living in an area without trees and grass would drive you a little crazy, but the locals don’t go without here. They still have a fantastic golf course, no ‘green’ as such, you just have to use your imagination, but it was voted as being one of the top 10 most unique golf courses in the world. To top it off, the locals often play on the course at night with ‘glow in the dark’ balls, rather than playing out in the midday sun. Fancy a round of night golf anyone?! 

Coober Pedy is also the perfect backdrop for large screen outdoor movies. 

And you’ll certainly meet colourful characters in Cooder Pedy. Take Crocodile Harry – he’s one of the most well known locals, with a global reputation and you can visit his funkadelic underground home for only a couple of dollars. Harry declares himself to be a Latvian Baron who was forced to leave his country after World War II, subsequently becoming a crocodile hunter in Northern Australia before finally ending up in Coober Pedy in the 1970s to make his living digging for opals. Or so he says...and there’s no real reason to disbelieve him. After all, it is not unusual for the locals here to have a colourful history trailing behind them. 

Sitting roughly between Adelaide and Alice Springs, Coober Pedy is a convenient stopover for tourists. However, it really offers more than that and should be seen as a major Australian attraction in its own rights as there is something uniquely special about the place. 

What to do in Coober Pedy

Despite being located in one of Australia’s harshest environments, the town and its hinterland offer a wealth of interesting activities. A good start would be to visit the opal mines and the underground church (yes there really was a church built underground!). Continuing the underground theme is the art gallery and museum. 

If all that is beginning to make you a little claustrophobic (and it’s bound to happen on your first trip there!), visit The Big Winch, which has a great gift shop or pop into one of the local bars to taste a local brew. 

One of the best ways to get a feel for the place though is just to have a drive around and take in the uniqueness of it. The backdrop is a photographer’s paradise so you’ll want your camera close to hand. Imagine capturing the alien feel of the landscape and the breathtaking views looking out over ‘The Breakaways’, flat-topped mesas that strikingly break up the miles of arid scenery. Located approximately 30km north of Coober Pedy, these are definitely one of the Australian Outback’s best kept secrets. You’ll also be amazed by the Moon Plain, about 15 km outside of the town. But don’t expect trees, the first tree ever seen in the town was one welded together from scrap iron and it still sits on a hilltop overlooking the town today!! 

For a fun adventure, you can travel with the mail man on Coober Pedy’s mail run to visit remote outposts and learn a wealth of colourful history about the town and its residents along the way. 

How to get to Coober Pedy

By Air: There are weekly flights between Adelaide, Coober Pedy and Alice Springs. 

By Road: Hiring a car to travel to the region certainly makes a fascinating road trip. Alternatively, Greyhound run daily overnight coaches from Adelaide to Coober Pedy or a day time run from Alice Springs. 

By Rail: You can ask to be dropped off at Manguri Station, some 47km from Coober Pedy on the Ghan route. However, the rail staff will only let you disembark if you have pre-arranged transport to Coober Pedy.